By Honor McCain
HQ 42 | SUMMER/AUTUMN 2001
Nestled at the corner of Sixth Street and Fourth Avenue is Nawab Indian Cuisine, a place where you are greeted with lilting Indian music and the savory aromas of garlic, ginger, cumin and cilantro. The lighting is neither bright nor dim, but a soothing medium that facilitates relaxation. Nawab (pronounced nuh-VAHB) has many loyal patrons, and since its 1997 opening in Huntington has, according to owner Raj Arora, enjoyed success far beyond what he “projected, expected or deserved.”
Arora moved to the U.S. with his wife Nisha in 1983, and opened the first Nawab in Long Island, New York, in 1987. There are now two Nawab restaurants in Long Island and both of them were voted among the Top Ten restaurants in New York in 1993. Today, there are seven Nawabs, all family owned, in New York, Virginia and West Virginia, and the newest Nawab opened its doors in Charleston in May 2000.
Arora owns and manages Nawab with his wife, whom he calls “the spirit of the restaurant.” With her radiant smile, quiet, charming manner and beautiful Indian dress, Nisha exposes customers to Indian culture and welcomes them as though they are guests in her own home. Arora also often mingles with the customers, greeting them with a smile and friendly handshake.
“Nawab” is the Indian word for “duke,” and this title of nobility conveys the respect accorded every guest of the restaurant. Arora says that one of the primary goals of the staff at Nawab is to create an atmosphere where guests feel like family, that their presence is truly appreciated and they can enjoy a wonderful meal in a comfortable, intimate setting.
Nawab’s head chef, Bikramjit “Vicky” Singh, worked for Arora in New York and (to our benefit) followed him to Huntington. Singh prepares a wide variety of northern Indian dishes that appeal to many different tastes. There are appetizers such as Vegetable Samosa, which are crisp turnovers stuffed with spiced potatoes and peas, and Chicken Pakora, which are tender pieces of mildly spiced chicken that are dipped in lentil flour batter and fried.
The menu also features soups, salads, breads and relishes that add an extra bit of flavor to any meal, and entrees include beef, lamb, chicken, seafood and vegetarian selections. One of Nawab’s specialties is Tandoori dishes. The Tandoor is a pit oven made from clay in which wood charcoal is aglow at all times. All meats, poultry and seafood stay immersed in special marinades overnight, and they are then skewered and broiled in the Tandoor. The Tandoor is also used to create a variety of scrumptious homemade breads.
The food at Nawab is not only delectable, but healthy, as well. All the food is natural and prepared daily on the premises with no additives or preservatives. Arora is especially proud of this aspect of the restaurant.
“The food is pure and made with great care. Even the spices, which many restaurants buy pre-ground, are freshly ground on-site every day,” he notes.
When asked what he would tell a first-time guest at Nawab, Arora says, “Don’t come with the expectation that this is ‘hot’ food.” This is a frequent and incorrect assumption, and he states that Indian food “is flavorful, not hot.” In fact, guests at Nawab have the option of having their food spiced mild, medium, hot, or “Indian hot,” depending on their taste.
According to Arora, the one expectation you should have when planning a trip to Nawab is “that you will have a great meal.”
Arora treated me to a sample of various Indian dishes and asked me to choose my favorite to share with you. Although the decision was difficult, I selected Fish Tikka, boneless salmon marinated in aromatic herbs and spices and broiled in the Tandoor. I prepared this dish myself, and can tell you that the recipe is extremely easy to follow and the results are delicious. I hope you will enjoy it as much as my family and I did.
Nawab Indian Cuisine is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Entrees start at $6.95 and children’s portions are available on some items at half the regular price. Reservations are encouraged and may be made by calling (304) 525-8500.
FISH TIKKA
1 pound boneless salmon fillet, descaled and cut into 2-inch cubes
1 cup plain yogurt
2 teaspoons fresh ground garlic
2 teaspoons fresh ground ginger
1 teaspoon red chili powder or fresh ground green chilies
1 teaspoon cumin powder
1 teaspoon coriander powder
1 teaspoon salt
Splash of ajwain or caraway seeds
2-3 thin slices of lemon
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 cup fresh chopped cilantro
Place all ingredients into a medium-sized bowl and mix with the salmon cubes. Cover and refrigerate for 1-2 hours. Transfer to a nonstick baking pan and bake at 275ºF for 25-30 minutes. When the fish is ready, prepare some Basmati rice. When the rice is done, pour the fish over the rice and serve. This dish may be served with your choice of salad, or vegetables such as broccoli and mushrooms, which may be cooked with the fish.
