By Lynn Seldon
HQ 36 | AUTUMN 1999
If you’re from the Huntington area and you haven’t been to Snowshoe Mountain lately, you’re in for a big surprise. A blizzard of big bucks dumped on this well-known resort has made Snowshoe bigger and better than ever.
Last season, Snowshoe celebrated its 25th year of operation by marking a new beginning in the history of the resort (and mid-Atlantic skiing). Before you head up Cheat Mountain to Snowshoe, a little lesson in its past will make you appreciate the historic changes now transforming the resort.
Snowshoe was founded by Dr. Thomas “Doc” Birmingham, who had already found southern ski resort success with Sugar and Beech in North Carolina. Doc was enticed by Cheat Mountain’s height (500 feet above any New England ski area) and the near 200 inches of snow that the area averaged.
Way back in 1974, the resort opened with three chair lifts and nine slopes, including the Jean-Claude Killy designed Cupp Run. It quickly expanded, with slopes and facilities sprawling all over the top of the mountain in the 70s, 80s and early-90s. With the purchase of nearby Silver Creek in 1992, the resort had grown to an incredible 56 slopes and 11 lifts.
Snowshoe’s second quarter-century of growth is going to be even bigger. Intrawest, developer of the likes of Whistler/Blackcomb, Stratton, Copper and Tremblant, has poured more than $100 million into Snowshoe since purchasing it In 1995. This includes more slopes, more night skiing, new lodging, more restaurants, new activities like snowshoeing, shopping, slopeside services and more.
I strongly recommend extending a Snowshoe trip to more than two nights. Snowshoe has grown into much more than a place to make as many downhill runs as possible before heading back to work. There’s enough to keep you busy for many days on and off the slopes.
The first thing to reserve in advance is a room at the inn (or, in Snowshoe’s case, the condo). Condos are definitely the way to go at Snowshoe, with a wide range of choices all over the mountain and down at Silver Creek. Though they may cost a bit more, the space and amenities gained (including kitchens, fireplaces and living rooms) make a big difference in any experience.
Snowshoe veterans all have their favorite condos and houses, but I’m already a big fan of the new options. Ask for a junior studio, studio, or a one or two bedroom unit in Rimfire Lodge, which is right in the heart of the new ski-in/ski-out mountaintop Village Center. It’s an ideal base at the heart of the action. If you’d rather be away from the hubbub, inquire about the quieter Camp Four two and three bedroom townhomes at the edge of the slopes.
Both of these new condo complexes will work well for families, though the units down at Silver Creek are also very popular and convenient. If you want more of a European-style hotel experience, it’s tough to beat the Whistlepunk Inn.
When making your reservation, be sure to ask about packages that include accommodations, rentals, lessons, discounts and more.
Once you have a place to stay, you need to make dinner plans. It may seem silly to book reservations for meals beforehand, but it’s not. My long-time favorite, The Red Fox, is typically sold out on weekends and the new upscale choice, Eli’s, will quickly become similar as word spreads. So make late-evening reservations for Eli’s on Friday night and The Red Fox on Saturday night.
If you are coming in on Friday, try to arrive by mid- to late afternoon. You’ll avoid lines at check-in and you’ll have time to get the lay of the land.
Once up the mountain, head to Silver Creek to get any creaks out of the old ski legs during a session of night skiing. This “resort within a resort” has 14 slopes lit, making for a fun first night. The runs stay torched until 10 p.m. A lack of lift lines means you can crank out lots of quick runs here. The black slopes aren’t lit, so save them for uncrowded quickies later in your stay. The longer blue runs like Fox Chase and Cascade will provide perfect warm-ups.
Other options at Silver Creek, which always remains less crowded than Snowshoe, include: a very popular tubing hill for kids and kids at heart; the most elaborate terrain park on the east coast; and the region’s largest all-snow halfpipe (more than 300 feet). Off the slopes, the massive self-contained Silver Creek Lodge offers anything you need to rent, buy, eat or drink. If you’re not eating at Eli’s later, the open-hearth pizzas in the Bear’s Den are Silver Creek specialties. After your outing at Snowshoe’s little sister, keep your reservation at Eli’s. Part of the new Rimfire Lodge development of accommodations, shopping, dining and services, Eli’s, the creation of former Greenbrier executive chef Robert Wong, specializes in regional cuisine in an upscale mountain lodge atmosphere.
If you’re up to it, Connection nightclub is open until two a.m. and features a live band, while quieter Rosa’s Cantina generally has low-key trios. If you like to laugh, the Comedy Cellar is one of the mountain’s most popular attractions. Hilarious host Roy Riley brings in guest comedians from throughout the U.S.
Set your alarm and get up early. Plan on having a quick breakfast in your condo or heading down to Auntie Pasta’s for more hearty fare. Just try to be over at the top of Snowshoe’s Western Territory by 8:30 a.m., when the ropes drop for famed Cupp Run and the new sister slope, Shay’s Revenge.
When Snowshoe visitors talk about their favorite runs, it’s Cupp Run (and now Shay’s Revenge). With 1,500 feet in vertical drop and up to 60 percent steeps, there’s some serious terrain in the Western Territory.
A new quad (reducing lift times from 20 to six minutes) and the addition of Shay’s Revenge make the area even better.
After a morning in the Western Territory, the lunch options are many. One neat new possibility that many Snowshoe visitors don’t even know exists (you have to ski the Western Territory to get there) is Arbuckle’s Cabin. Located at the bottom of Cupp Run and Shay’s Revenge, this little place offers up creative hot stews and a wide variety of beers and other beverages. There’s a huge deck, which features music and cookouts on weekends with good weather.
For the afternoon, head over to the main side of the mountain to experience the bulk of Snowshoe’s slopes. I’ve generally found that the further away you get from Snowshoe’s largest lodging and dining areas, the smaller the crowds on the slopes and lifts.
Finally, as the day heads toward dusk, get over to the edge of the mountain with some runs on steep Widowmaker and rides on the fast Widowmaker quad. The steeps here will probably bring your day to a burning close.
If your days on the slopes sometimes tend to end earlier than sunset, there are plenty of other options. If Snowshoe has some natural white stuff, try snowshoeing on the trails they use for hiking and mountain biking. One other new option added by Intrawest is a horse-drawn sleigh ride to the summit.
The evening can mean more fun under the lights at Silver Creek, a spa visit or some time at one of the happy hours. Just be sure to save time for dinner at The Red Fox.
The Red Fox is long established as one of the region’s top restaurants. Owners Margaret Ann Smith and Brian Ball offer an elegant European chalet atmosphere and a variety of regional cookery, including some of the best game and fish dishes you’ll find.
If you didn’t hit Cupp Run and Shay’s Revenge Saturday, be there by 8:30 a.m. Sunday. It’s best to get in several runs before the late-risers show up later in the morning.
I’ve found that the longer you can stay on Sunday, the better. Head back over to the main side of Snowshoe and you’ll find that the slopes start emptying and the lift lines evaporate as you head into the afternoon.
Of course, smart Snowshoe visitors try to stay at least through Monday. Even if it’s just for a few more morning runs in the Western Territory, it makes an ideally planned weekend at Snowshoe even better.
