By Matthew DeBord
HQ 119 | AUTUMN 2022
Long ago, when I entered relative adulthood and was able to buy my own wine a regular basis, the “cheap” category was just that. The wines were mediocre at best; there was a vast amount of “jug” wine that was more about volume than quality; and anything under $20 was a risk.
Luckily, by the late 1980s, that situation was rapidly changing thanks to a growing U.S. market for wine and a massive number of technological advancements in winemaking. Fast forward to the present, and even wines under $10 can be quite good; while the $20 price is so saturated with quality that you literally can go into almost any wine shop, grab a $20 bottle off the shelf and be guaranteed an experience that would have impressed a 1970s-era oenophile who wouldn’t pop a cork for anything except a reputable French Bordeaux or Burgundy.
Over the years, I’ve amassed a decent list of reliable wines under $20 that are unlikely to fail you, no matter the setting or the menu. My list is hardly definitive, but you should be able to locate what’s on it in most wine shops, grocery stores and online retailers. The biggest plus is that you can now obtain reds, whites, roses and sparklers that all delight for $20 or less. Gone are the days when only bland whites were found in the bargain bin. Let’s get to it!
1. Kermit Lynch Cotes du Rhone ($15)
Currently available in the 2020 vintage, this is the best under-$20 red wine money can buy. Kermit Lynch is a legendary importer from Northern California who has long looked to France’s southern Rhone region to find overlooked gems. This wine is his entry-level masterpiece, showcasing his preferred full, rich, fruit style, but with layers of pleasing complexity. I used to buy this wine by the case and keep it on hand as my go-to house wine.
2. Monte Antico ($13)
The Italian “Super Tuscan” reds that redefined the country’s reputation are expensive and hard to get, but this bottling is well known among enthusiasts as a “secret” Super Tuscan that’s produced near some fancy Italian vineyards but doesn’t carry a huge price tag. It tastes like a wine that costs three times more, with supple fruit and substantial complexity.
3. Coppola Rosso ($13)
The famous movie director’s winemaking organization has produced this California red blend for over a decade now, much to the delight of bargain hunters. It’s not an American version of an Italian wine, but rather a summary of the Golden State’s debt to French grapes, with some California stalwarts thrown in. This blend of Cabernet, Zinfandel and Syrah is your pizza wine for eternity.
4. Erath Pinot Noir ($20)
This lovely Oregon Pinot Noir hovers around $20 but can be found for less. It’s an ideal introduction to the Oregon style, which is far less fruit-forward than California Pinot and more like classic red Burgundy. Much lighter than Cabernet and Merlot, Pinot Noir from Oregon is defined by rich aromas and delicate fruit flavors.
5. Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling ($15)
Riesling is stupidly undervalued, the world’s least expensive great wine. This version from Washington State is less challenging to understand from winemaking tradition than the German version, but it’s completely delicious, with nimble fruit flavors and a nice mineral undercurrent with crisp acidity.
6. Hess Select North Coast Cabernet ($19)
Cabernet Sauvignon is the definitive California red wine, but the best stuff is pricey. This offering gives you Cab power at a more reasonable sticker. And while it isn’t sophisticated, if you just want to throw a few steaks on the grill and have a straightforward dinner, you can’t do better.
7. Yellow Tail Chardonnay ($7)
My cheapest wine under $20 is also one of the more basically satisfying. Hailing from Australia but findable all over the U.S., Yellow Tail’s Chard is blissfully uncomplicated, with juicy tropical notes and a dollop of oaky goodness that makes it the ultimate fun-loving fried chicken partner.
8. Martini & Rossi Asti Spumante ($12)
An unintended consequence of the multi-decades wine boom that we’ve all enjoyed is that some old-fashioned wines have been cast to the wayside. Good old sweet and bubbly Asti Spumante, a northern Italian wine made from the Moscato grape, is one. All manner of international sparkling wines, most dry, have displaced what was once a familiar aperitif. One flute of Asti, however, is a nifty way to start off dinner. The M&R mega-brand makes my favorite Asti to pour into that flute.
9. Franzia Dark Red Blend ($17)
What?! A box wine? Well, let’s be honest. When you invite a bunch of people over for a party, why not simply fill up a few carafes rather than constantly pop corks? Box wines used to be derided, but their quality has come way up; and although nobody seems to know what this “Dark Red Blend” actually contains, the blend is passable and ideal for a crowd. Franzia is also the biggest name in decent bulk wine — it created “Two Buck Chuck” for Trader Joe’s — so this boxed product won’t disappoint anyone but the more committed snobs.
10. Barefoot Rose ($9)
I don’t like rose very much, but the pink wine is wildly popular; so here’s my recommendation: find a cheap one and buy in bulk. Barefoot can be found just about everywhere; and while it’s not a great wine, no rose really is. For summertime quaffing, however, it’s perfect.
