By Matthew DeBord
HQ 63 | AUTUMN 2007
Twenty years ago, if you’d tried to find 20 really terrific bottles of wine, each one priced less than $20, you’d have struggled. But since the late 1980s, a worldwide wine boom has taken place. Countries that once had essentially no wine industry now do, and countries where wine making was formerly a rustic, disorganized practice now export their vintages to the world’s biggest wine markets.
What this means is that you can easily walk into a wine store with a light wallet and walk out with something that’s extremely satisfying to drink and share with friends and family. What follows is a list of the best wines I think are currently out there, all priced at $20 and under. This list has an international scope because that’s how the wine world now functions – in fact, in many cases you’re better off buying international wines, rather than wines from California. These wines have more character and offer more bang for the buck. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with the wines of California. That’s why plenty of them are on the list.
So, without further fanfare, here’s the list:
WHITES
PEPPERWOOD GROVE CHARDONNAY $7
Pepperwood Grove is a wine label put out by a member of one of California’s oldest winemaking families. Don Sebastiani and his two sons have a simple philosophy: Put the best California wines in the bottle for the most competitive price, and market them in a fun and innovative way. This Chard is made from grapes that come from all over California. It’s clean, fruity, and blissfully free of a lot of heavy oak.
FREIXENET CORDON NEGRO BRUT $13
This famous Spanish sparkling wine, known as cava (Spain’s answer to Champagne) is widely available and possesses a rather impressive reputation as the greatest party bubbly every created. It’s ideal for large groups and summer picnics, and makes a great mimosa. It’s lively and crisp, with nice citrus and apple flavors, as well as a nutty undercurrent. Delicious and delightfully affordable.
KENDALL-JACKSON GRAND RESERVE CHARDONNAY $19
A wine that has stood the test of time. Kendall-Jackson effectively put California on the map for most consumers, and this bottling represents the latest evolution in their house style, which is abundantly fruity, somewhat oaky, with just a hint of sweetness. Not the finest California Chard you can obtain, but a great and versatile wine to keep around for simple Sunday dinners.
BRANCOTT SAUVIGNON BLANC $16
New Zealand’s entire young wine industry was established by wines like this, from the country’s Marlborough region. Sauvignon Blancs from this part of the world, as opposed to from France (where they are called Sancerre) or California (where they are sometimes called Fumé Blanc), are racy and attention-getting, full of zing and energy. This one is no exception. It’s a perfect wine to serve with grilled shrimp.
HUGEL RIESLING $19
Riesling was once a very popular wine in the U.S., but it’s been relegated to the back of wine-buyers minds for decades now, ever since Americans lost their taste for sweetish styles. That’s too bad, as Riesling currently offers perhaps the best quality-to-price ratio in all of wine. This example is from the Alsace region of France, which sits on the border with Germany. It’s an excellent basic Riesling from a great Riesling-producing region. Full of crispness and character, it’s a perfect choice to pour with Asian cuisines.
ECCO DOMANI PINOT GRIGIO $11
Pinot Grigio is an Italian wine from the country’s north eastern portion, near Venice. It became very popular a few years back, so there’s now quite a lot of it on the market, some of it at high prices. In spirit, however, Pinot Grigio is supposed to be a simple, easy-drinking wine such as this one, with lighthearted fruit flavors and a bracing finish.
BERINGER CHENIN BLANC $6
I just love this wine. So cheap! So tasty! So much pleasure for so little outlay of funds! Beringer is a large California producer that makes wines costing much, much more, but their vintners bring professionalism to even lowly bottlings such as this Chenin Blanc. The result is a nearly perfect wine to enjoy with seafood or stir-fry.
LA CREMA SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY $19
This wine is currently creating a sensation in California, where I live. Most of my wine-quaffing friends are snapping it up by the case. The reason? It’s a rich and complex Chard that tastes as if it should be selling for twice as much.
JOSEPH DROUHIN LAFORET CHARDONNAY $11
It’s labeled “Chardonnay,” but it’s really white Burgundy. And it’s fantastic! Basic white Burgs are rarely this good (and the truly good stuff is untouchable for less than $50). What I love is this wine’s sharp, mineral flavors, a dead giveaway that you’re dealing with Burgundy’s unique terroir, or “sense of place.”
GREG NORMAN ESTATES CHARDONNAY $14
The internationally famous golfer has never disappointed with his signature Chard. This wine has everything that great Down Under Chardonnay has going for it –beautifully, full-bodied fruit flavors, bright acidity, and just enough oak to bring it all into creamy balance.
REDS
RODNEY STRONG SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON $19
Frankly, it’s a challenge to find a good California Cab for $20. This example, however, is a no-brainer. It’s not from Napa, but from nearby Sonoma, where excellent Cabs tend to be priced a bit lower. Everything you could want in a red wine is here, from the blackberry fruit flavors to the long finish. Grilled steaks, anyone?
RAVENSWOOD VINTNERS BLEND ZINFANDEL $12
Zinfandel is an all-American wine grape – the U.S.A is the only place where it’s really become successful and popular. Ravenswood has staked a claim to being the greatest Zin-maker of all time with wines like this. Big, powerful, and fruit-driven, the famous “Vintners Blend” is ideal with barbecue.
MOUTON-CADET BORDEAUX ROUGE $11
This is probably the easiest to find red Bordeaux in the world. It’s produced by the same folks who create Mouton-Rothschild, one of the globe’s finest wines, so it’s dependably excellent. Very typical of Bordeaux – not as heavy as wines from California or Australia, but full of complex flavors and nuanced textures.
LOUIS JADOT PINOT NOIR $19
Jadot is one of the preeminent sellers of red Burgundy in France. Some of their wines retail for upwards of $100. This bottling, however, is a wonderful way to sample their style at a reasonable price. As with all red Burgs, this one has ample character to go along with its enticing cherry flavors and smoky nose.
FALESCO VITIANO $14
I’m going to keep it simple here: this Italian red is just about the best bottle of wine on Planet Earth for under $20. Buy a lot of it. Drink it all the time. Give it as a gift to all your friends.
MARQUES DE RISCAL RIOJA RESERVA $19
“Reserva” means that this wine spends two years in oak barrels. In Rioja, Spain’s most famous wine region, that denotes quality. This wine is a perennial champ, always coming though with bold flavors that serve as an ideal partner to roasted meats.
ROSEMOUNT DIAMOND SHIRAZ $13
If there’s a can’t-miss wine in the world, this is it. In my entire wine drinking career, I’ve never tasted a bad bottle. Full-bodied and rich with dark berry fruit, this sucker goes beautifully with everything from pizza to lamb.
GASCON MALBEC $11
Malbec was an obscure French grape until it caught on in Argentina. Now, it’s known for producing powerful wines that are perfect accompaniments to red meat. Personally, Malbecs are my current favorite red wines – I think Argentina has the only red-wine culture that can ultimately give France and California a run for their money.
FRANCIS COPPOLA DIAMOND MERLOT $19
The director of “The Godfather” also makes wine – and good wine, to boot. This Merlot is from his mid-range label and delivers plenty of recognizable California fruit character: plush and rich with an edge of pepper and spice.
GUIGAL COTES DU RHONE $15
This wine has crept up in price over the past ten years, but it’s still an outstanding value. Côtes du Rhone is the quintessential Parisian bistro wine. Here, there’s a core of red berry fruit framed by slightly wild, spicy, peppery flavors. The ideal red to drink with … well, just about everything.
